We knew that this last leg, the
final push to into Colorado, would be about a five-hour drive. And we knew that we were supposed to be in Boulder in
time for dinner with Caitlin's family, roundabouts 6pm.
And so, we figure we can afford, for the second day in a row, to
sleep in. So we take our waking slowly, and there’s another round of CD
burns, mostly stand-up comedy this time, which is somewhat odd but, really, we
need the diversity.
Was gettin' that trucker's tan. |
We have some minor shenanigans,
upon first getting on the road, involving the realization that we need to get
gas before we leave Junction City, and the fact that we are stuck in this
ill-executed traffic circle for a few roundabouts. Finally though, we gas up and hit road, west on I-70, which
has been a good ride for us, those 75mph speed limits really letting us eat up
ground.
The early parts of the day are gray
and ugly, but soon we’ve driven out of the weather, and we skirt a storm in
eastern Kansas, racing along the front for a hundred miles as it looms
over our heads. It’s held at bay
only by our momentum, which has been growing with every mile we put between us
and Virginia. Growing with every drop of gasoline burnt on the sacrificial alter of the
interstate. At this point, we’re pretty fucking unstoppable.
The post-it reads: "Hurry. They're gaining on us." |
The Toyota had been given a pretty
thorough maintenance inspection before we’d left, but by the time we’d entered
Kansas she was already on her last legs.
From the beginning we’d been too heavy, causing the tires to
occasionally rub wheel wells anytime we crossed a bridge joint or caught a
pothole wrong. And now the engine
is squealing, too, a problem Caitlin thinks might be the AC belt, which she’d
just had replaced, but which I suspect might be the serpentine belt. Even the CD player is giving out,
strange tickings and distortions haunting the speakers. And, well, music is so imperative to
our survival here…
We’d not yet eaten, so when we see
an exit sign for J Boots and a Sonic,
well, we have no choice but to pull over. I need harvest boots, and we both need food. Unfortunately, the boot shop is closed, it being a Sunday and this being
the Bible Belt. But Sonic, God
bless ‘em, is open. Caitlin is
more excited about this than I am, Sonic harkening back memories of her youth
in Texas. I’m not totally sure
I’ve ever actually been to a Sonic.
So, we pull into the little parking
space, with that little speaker, and deliberate over the menu.
“Breakfast burritos…”
“And tots!”
“We must get slushes.”
Road food: two burritos, tater tots, two slushes
and coffee for under ten bucks.
“Ah… and can I get a medium coffee,
with a shot of espresso?”
(Crackle of static) “Mediums are
considered large, is that okay?”
“Erhm…” Sideways glance at Caitlin,
who nods in the affirmative.
“Yes?”
“Ok, one large coffee with an extra
boom shot, coming up.”
To Caitlin, aside: “Heh, he called
it a ‘boom shot’.”
We spend way too much time chowing
down, but it’s a lot of food to be juggling on the road, one hand on the steering wheel and the other reaching for my hash. And no way in hell can I simultaneously eat up both highway and a burrito.
Enough to break Don Quixote's heart. |
As it warms up and the heat bakes
away whatever cloud cover we haven’t outrun, Kansas is getting pretty damn
gorgeous. Everyone except for Nate
had told us to dread the drive through Kansas, but Caitlin and I are both quite
taken by the landscape, golden and western but completely barren, these Flint
Hills. Coming into view are dozens
of wind turbines, giant things that would terrorize poor Don Quixote. There’s no place for a cop to hide for
hundreds of miles and, unfearing, I get caught up in the simple act of driving. Caitlin
checks me every once in a while.
“Hey. You’re going a hundred miles an hour.”
“Oh, thanks.” I bring it back down.
Still, the car is having a tough
time handling these speeds. At one
point, the wind peels a three-foot tentacle of rubber sealant from the
windshield, sends it whipping against the passenger window and Caitlin screaming.
“OH MY GOD, WHAT IS THAT THING!”
“THE CAR’S FALLING APART, WE’RE
GOING TOO FAST!
“IT’S SO ANGRY!”
“IT’S LIKE SOMETHING FROM RIDLEY
SCOTT’S ALIEN! IT’S LIKE AN
OCTOPUS!”
“KILL IT!”
We pull off at an exit, which takes
us to a dirt field, and examine the damage. The wind had been whipping the thing around, lashing it
dangerously against the windows of the car. An operation is in order, and we amputate the thing and throw
the appendage in the trunk, then press on. On the onramp back to I-70, we pass a van pulled over onto
the side of the road, and a woman helping her toddler son to piss in a
field. This is hilarious, and we
almost pause to snap a picture, but have second thoughts about photographing an
exposed five-year old.
No stopping us, though. We’re back on the road, and pass cars
maliciously anymore.
“Fuck you, truck.”
“Take that.”
“Fuck you too, car.”
“And take… That.”
Hysterics set in.
“Wait for it… Wait for it… AND TAKE THIS!”
We pass other cars maliciously, anymore. |
And, finally, the border
crossing. Cliché, but imperative:
“We’re not in Kansas anymore.” The
fields of Kansas roll into Colorado, but become more rugged, look more like
someone should be herding cattle or something. And then, suddenly, there they are. The Rockies loom. And on either side of
the road there are hundreds of those towering wind turbines, Zen-like in their
perpetual motion. Every once in a
while, though, you can spy a still, dead one. Actual tumbleweeds blow across the road.
Caitlin wants to finish off the
drive, and insists on driving herself into Boulder as a sort of finality. This is understandable, and I get it,
although I am still somewhat loath to give up the wheel.
Denver turns out to be a bit uglier
and more industrial a city than I’d expected, but Caitlin shrugs. “Everyone in Boulder hates Denver.” And
then, the sign for Boulder, 20 miles.
“Holy shit. We’ve almost made it.”
“I’m feeling Walkmen.”
“Me too. The song that started it all.”
The mountains are on top of us now,
and we begin an ascent, the air becoming more rarified with every passing second
and foot of elevation gained.
Caitlin starts to feel sick from the change in atmospheric pressure and,
great tragedy, all my Precision V7 pens start to explode.
But the rarified air does feel
good. So good that maybe, you
think, there was something to all that Kerouacian Big Sur beatnik shit. We’re up past Boulder now, and close to
home.
“Is it cold?”
I roll down a window. “It’s rarified. That creek is frozen.”
“Uhm… That doesn’t answer my
question.”
No looking back, long road ahead. Eh, grrl? |
“Listen, I’m not going to give you
an opinion, one way or another, about whether I think it’s cold or not. I’m just saying; that creek is frozen
as shit.”
And we pull into the driveway, “Four
Provinces” playing, Caitlin and I singing along, even after turning off the
radio. The last thing on the tape
recorder is the two of us: “The next time I see you at Sophia’s place,
we’ll fall right back in line.”
Then, just Caitlin: “We’ll tilt up your glass, somethin’ somethin’… (less
musically, here) Something… something."
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