Thursday, February 28, 2013

In the Rarified Air, Regrouping for the Final Push


The few days I’m able to spend with the Hoffmaster clan are every bit as therapeutic and regenerative as I’d hoped they would be, and even more of a detoxification from our road trip than I’d imagined.  I’m fed an entirely vegetarian diet, much of it vegan and raw; exactly what I needed to flush the White Castle and Sonic and Lord knows what all else out of my system.
Even my legs get a stretch and, on day two, having first provided me my preferred breakfast of black coffee and then a lunch of goodies from Whole Foods, Caitlin’s father Forrest takes me and the girls up into one of the state parks, where there’s scenic driving and good hiking to be had.  After a forty-five minute drive or so, we’re up in the mountains.
Crazy how low the temperature drops, up at altitude.  In the foothills it had been almost fifty degrees.  Up here, though, it’s down to twenty-three.  At the entrance to the park, a ranger admits that there’s “some snow” on some of the longer trails, higher up, but that the nearest one should be hikeable.  So, we give it a go.
When we pull up to the trailhead, though, next to this little lake, everyone in the car makes these little noises, like “Ooooh ahhh, ha ha!” which roughly translates as “Damn, it is much colder and windier and snowier up here than we’d anticipated.
Peyton, Caitlin’s sister, is adequately prepared for the weather.  And Forrest is überprepared, being the outdoorsman of the family.  Caitlin and I, fresh off the type of candy-ass winter that Virginia’s been dishing out since the so-called “snowpocalypse” of a few years prior, are decidedly and woefully unprepared, me doubly so, what with the abandonment of all my winter effects for my migration to warmer climes.
But, we get out anyway, to scope it out.  Or, to utilize a phrase Caitlin and I have been abusing recently (I’d just introduced it to the girl), we “case the joint.”  The girls even bring a blanket from the car, and after some good-natured fighting over it, decide to wrap themselves up together, huddling close for warmth.
“What do you think?” asks Forrest.  “Too much?”
I’m able to needle everyone on; it is not so bad, it is a short jaunt around the lake and, in jorts and a North Face jacket, I am arguably the most exposed to the elements, and therefore have the final say as to whether or not it is too cold.
“Is it cold, Daniel?”
“I mean, that lake is frozen as shit.”
And it is.
As we set off, not far past the trailhead, Forrest announces, “I have to go converse with the trees.”  I don’t quite get it, but wonder if the Hoffmasters don’t have some Indian blood in ‘em.  But, the girls explain.
“He always says that when he has to piss.”
“Oh.”
Actually, I sympathize.  The ride up had taken a hot minute, and the Hoffmaster women had been pushing water on me since my arrival, so as to counter the effects of altitude sickness.  And lunch had been accompanied by massive amounts of iced tea and coconut water.  I too must piss.
The girls keep trudging along, as Forrest and I trail them and talk about training in Boulder, specifically in winter.  By the time we reach the far side of the lake, we experience that peculiar thing called ‘the lake effect,’ and the wind coming off the ice carries on it these biting ice crystals blown off the snowdrifts.  Caitlin and Peyton, the wind and ice whipping around them ahead of us, look like they are lost in Antarctica, about to freeze to death.  One of them slips on the trail, and they both go down.
When finally we make it back around to the car, the girls and my legs are frozen.  It is decided that all haste must be made to get to Coffee on the Rocks, a java shop in one of the little mountain towns a little ways down into the valley.
We take the long and scenic way back home, on Rt. 7.  So different from the Rt. 7 back home in Virginia, this one hugs the mountain on one side and on the other overlooks the valley.  The trip down takes over an hour, and so idyllic that I’m lulled to sleep, this despite the cup of coffee I’d just ingested.
When we arrive back at the house, Forrest and I begin prepping for the run we’d agreed to go on.  This is a mortal terror for me.  Forrest may be fifteen years my senior, but he’s been rigorously training for an Ironman and, simply put, I am out of shape.  Even in regards to my running attire, I am outclassed.  Again, I’ve packed for the long haul in Australia, not my stint in the Colorado mountains.  So, it’s booties and a sweatshirt for me.
Actually, I fare much better on the run than I’d anticipated.  I’d feared how much the altitude would affect me but, aside from a splitting headache in the early parts of the run, it’s not much of a factor.
More debilitating, actually, are my biomechanics.  I’ve always had some level of muscular imbalances and, having not run in so long and atrophied somewhat, they’d only gotten worse.  Further wreaking havoc on me are the cumulative effects of the road trip, and my insistence on driving is coming back to bite me, now.  All those hours with my foot stomping down on the gas pedal had worked up a good bit of tension in my lower back, and I can feel it, now, manifesting first as a stiffening in my left IT band that pulls my stride, and finally translating into a grinding in my right hip.
But, you do what you’d learned to do as a long-distance runner; you grit your teeth and you man up.  Because the alternative is pussing out, which is no sort of alternative at all.  And, somehow, Forrest does not break me and, against all odds, I do not die.
The last half of the run is all uphill, back to the house, and when finally we take the last turn and it comes into view, Caitlin is out front, taking advantage of her break from being compelled to entertain me to finally unload her car.  I pull up short, and she asks me if I’m ok.
“Yeah, fine.  Still got it.”
(Caitlin would later tell me that I looked like death, but admitted that her father said I’d “kicked his ass,” thinking I’d taken it easy on him.  Well, I don’t know if that was the case…)
But, as these things go, the moment you stop running is the moment things start to lock up, and real pain sets in.  I gather a few of my lingering possessions from the car, and then make a strangely agonizing trek up the thirty-six steps ascending the Hoffmasters’ own personal slice of the mountain.
Forrest is taking the first shower, and so I sit down on Caitlin’s bed, zombed out, watching her unpack.  Well, I soon lay back, feet still cemented to the floor, and flirt pretty hard with sleeping.  So, Caitlin takes off my shoes, throws my legs up on the bed so that I can curl up all fetus-like, the way I do, and throws a blanket over me.  Thus, I sleep.
And am consequently woken up, all too soon, and am told to take a shower, become presentable and ready myself for dinner.  The hot water actually does wonders for my back, as does a generous dose of Tiger Balm.  Still, the walk down to the car is a limping torture, as is the trek through the parking lot to the Mexican joint where we’re eating out.
Peyton and Ali have gone to pick up one of Peyton’s friends, Delaney, from circus practice, of all things.  So Caitlin, Forrest and myself hold down the fort and wait for reinforcements.  (Read as: eat all the chips and guac and talk about Forrest’s overly and unwantedly sexually aggressive hairstylist)
The girls arrive, and we tuck into food.  It’s killer veggie tamale for me.  I’d heard food in Boulder was killer, and this affirms the sentiment.
Back on the mountain, the girls and I gravitate towards the basement, and listen to Mitch Hedberg, whom Caitlin and I had rediscovered on our trip.  It is good and keeps us lighthearted, and we spend an hour giggling together.  After getting our kicks, we settle in to watch Yojimbo.
Well, no one yet has ever gotten through Yojimbo in one sitting, and we all drop asleep where we are.
*  *  *
Next morning, and I’m up fairly early by my standards and, back stiff and feeling old, I do some rudimentary stretching, a dose of the good ol’ Tiger Balm and pop a few ibuprofen, and am thus readied for the day.
Great majority of my morning is spent, over a cup of coffee, trying to get the happenings of the last few days down on paper, and then from paper onto the computer and then out into the ether.
This is actually somewhat hard to do, what with the girls giggling away and carrying on and such in the kitchen, concocting some sort of egg, tortilla and salsa dish, calling Ali in every few minutes to come save the day.  Actually, for all the girlish antics that take place, the meal turns out to be quite excellent.
Caitlin and I had meant to get moving early on things and do another round of hiking but, well, I’m barely moving at all, early morning.  We fall back on the contingency plan, which is to hit thrift shops and the army surplus store, then visit Oskar Blues for a free tour in the afternoon.
Downtown Boulder is a happening area, and we meander down Pearl Street, scoping the little shops and coffee bars and people busking for a living, as Caitlin wants to do.  Overwhelming homeless population in these parts, though.
On the way down the strip, I have trouble keeping up and Caitlin notices the limp.  What can ya do?
We tool around the army store for a bit, mostly and ostensibly to find boots.  But, nothing pleases me aesthetically that would serve practically, and so we pick up only a few odds and ends: bandanas, work gloves, a shirt to be thrashed during harvest.  I toy with the idea of getting another knife, too; something more practical than the nigh-Bowie knife I’m currently operating with.  But, again, the right knife is not here.
On our way back to the car, Caitlin and I linger over a busker, a kid on a steel string guitar.  A genuine cowboy stands nearby, doing a jig and sporadically throwing bills into the guitbox case.
Minor down note, here, as we approach the car.  We’re just in time to see parking authority ticket us.  Well, such things happen.
With all haste, we set out in the general Grand Rapids direction.  Somewhere between here and there is the Oskar Blues Brewery.  We know that a free tour is conducted at 4pm, but we are running late and also don’t really know where we’re going.
At five minutes past, we roll into what seems far too much like a dive to be the brewery proper, but sidle up to the bar anyway, and a typically hip she-Coloradoan in turn sidles up to us.  We inquire about the tour.
“You just missed them,” the barkeep informs us.  “Let me get you a drink, and then I’ll walk you in.”
Excellent.  I get a Ten-Fiddy.  What with me being a real man and all, I can handle the 10.5% abv and 550 calories per 12oz pour.  Caitlin, being a lady and only slightly more delicate than me, goes through a flight and orders something lighter.  Pils, or something.
Drinks in hand, we catch up to the rest of the tour, which is actually surprisingly small, consisting of just three other people.  There is one decidedly motherly type, a slightly metal chick, and a kid just out of his teens who is either a skinhead or has alopecia, I can’t decide.
The tour is good, and I’m kicking myself for not bringing a camera.  Even Caitlin, who’s not much of a beer drinker, enjoys herself.
By the time we circle through the facility and back to the bar, it’s 5 o’clock, and everyone who’s just gotten off their shift on the production side is there at the bar.  Bunch of regulars, as well, one of whom sits down on the stool next to me, is asked how he’s doing and is slid a beer before he can finish his sitting.  Bunch of dogs, here, too.  A pretty boxer, a fat and old chocolate lab, and a French mastiff and a Great Dane, both huge, brindled and obviously companions.
I love Great Danes (circa Meredith Wilson, concerning my affinity for the breed: “You know, they only live seven or eight years, right?  Aw, you like the heartbreak, don’t you?”), and this huge, bone-thin and loping lady comes sauntering up to us, and gets a lot of love from Caitlin and myself.
The tour guide comes up, and brings us a couple of double dry-hopped Deviant Dale’s.  The brew is thick and indulgent, the way Oskar Blues likes to do it, and hoppier than hell.  Delicious, but kicking.  Caitlin really likes hers as well, but asks me to finish hers, and drive home.  Well, okay…
We order some chips to try and sober up, and Caitlin flirts with the barkeep, who we both agree is the most attractive person we’ve yet seen in Colorado, male or female.  For all the talk about the generally beautiful health-nut hippie chicks haunting Boulder, I’ve been fairly underwhelmed by the local fauna thus far.  Tipsily, we make our way to the gift shop, and pick out a t-shirt.  Oskar Blues bandana, too.
Back at la casa de Hoffmaster, it’s spaghetti squash for dinner, which is excellent.  But, my mind is elsewhere, me finally getting nervous and flighty, realizing that there’s nothing but sleep between now and tomorrow, when I make my break with the States.
After dinner and a bit of wine, we gravitate towards the living room, where there’s a fire going and the girls are doing homework and Caitlin is reading.  I try to get some writing done, and hope some black tea will help facilitate.  This is a tea family, and everyone else is indulging as well, but with those lesser, caffeine-free varieties.  Everyone balks at my decision to drink black.
But, despite this and my intentions of staying up all night to prep, I quickly nod off, in that cozy environ.
I wake up in a panic a few hours later, being sure that I’ve missed my flight.  It’s quiet and late-seeming, the fire having died down and everyone else having gone to bed except for Caitlin, who’s asleep on the coach with me.
But, it’s only 11:34pm, and I still have hours ahead of me.  I set and double-set and check and double-check my alarms, then put myself down again.
Two hours later, and it’s the same drill: wake with a start and go reaching for my watch or alarm clock or cell phone or whatever.  But still, I have time.
But I know now that I’m not going to be able to get through the night like this.  Better to try and be productive now, and try and sleep on that long flight later.  I try to get up without waking Caitlin but, half-conscious, she murmurs, “Aw, don’t leave me…” Which is a cute and endearing and a little bit heartbreaking of a thing for her to have said.  “Aw” is right.  Aw, Daniel… She’s just a kid.  Well, because I guess I’ve become somewhat attached now, haven’t I?  Even in this short a span of time.  Daniel you sucker, that’s not like you.
Despite these protests, after a wide-eyed hour or so in the dark, I get up, and start making my final preparations.

Saturday, February 23, 2013

The Outward Journey, At Any Rate. (4th and Final Day)








We knew that this last leg, the final push to into Colorado, would be about a five-hour drive.  And we knew that we were supposed to be in Boulder in time for dinner with Caitlin's family, roundabouts 6pm.  And so, we figure we can afford, for the second day in a row, to sleep in.  So we take our waking slowly, and there’s another round of CD burns, mostly stand-up comedy this time, which is somewhat odd but, really, we need the diversity.
Was gettin' that trucker's tan.
We have some minor shenanigans, upon first getting on the road, involving the realization that we need to get gas before we leave Junction City, and the fact that we are stuck in this ill-executed traffic circle for a few roundabouts.  Finally though, we gas up and hit road, west on I-70, which has been a good ride for us, those 75mph speed limits really letting us eat up ground.
The early parts of the day are gray and ugly, but soon we’ve driven out of the weather, and we skirt a storm in eastern Kansas, racing along the front for a hundred miles as it looms over our heads.  It’s held at bay only by our momentum, which has been growing with every mile we put between us and Virginia.  Growing with every drop of gasoline burnt on the sacrificial alter of the interstate.  At this point, we’re pretty fucking unstoppable.
The post-it reads: "Hurry.  They're gaining on us."
The Toyota had been given a pretty thorough maintenance inspection before we’d left, but by the time we’d entered Kansas she was already on her last legs.  From the beginning we’d been too heavy, causing the tires to occasionally rub wheel wells anytime we crossed a bridge joint or caught a pothole wrong.  And now the engine is squealing, too, a problem Caitlin thinks might be the AC belt, which she’d just had replaced, but which I suspect might be the serpentine belt.  Even the CD player is giving out, strange tickings and distortions haunting the speakers.  And, well, music is so imperative to our survival here…
We’d not yet eaten, so when we see an exit sign for J Boots and a Sonic, well, we have no choice but to pull over.  I need harvest boots, and we both need food.  Unfortunately, the boot shop is closed, it being a Sunday and this being the Bible Belt.  But Sonic, God bless ‘em, is open.  Caitlin is more excited about this than I am, Sonic harkening back memories of her youth in Texas.  I’m not totally sure I’ve ever actually been to a Sonic.
So, we pull into the little parking space, with that little speaker, and deliberate over the menu.
“Breakfast burritos…”
“And tots!”
“We must get slushes.”
Road food:  two burritos, tater tots, two slushes and coffee for under ten bucks.
“Ah… and can I get a medium coffee, with a shot of espresso?”
(Crackle of static) “Mediums are considered large, is that okay?”
“Erhm…” Sideways glance at Caitlin, who nods in the affirmative.  “Yes?”
“Ok, one large coffee with an extra boom shot, coming up.”
To Caitlin, aside: “Heh, he called it a ‘boom shot’.”
We spend way too much time chowing down, but it’s a lot of food to be juggling on the road, one hand on the steering wheel and the other reaching for my hash.  And no way in hell can I simultaneously eat up both highway and a burrito.
Enough to break Don Quixote's heart.
As it warms up and the heat bakes away whatever cloud cover we haven’t outrun, Kansas is getting pretty damn gorgeous.  Everyone except for Nate had told us to dread the drive through Kansas, but Caitlin and I are both quite taken by the landscape, golden and western but completely barren, these Flint Hills.  Coming into view are dozens of wind turbines, giant things that would terrorize poor Don Quixote.  There’s no place for a cop to hide for hundreds of miles and, unfearing, I get caught up in the simple act of driving.  Caitlin checks me every once in a while.
“Hey.  You’re going a hundred miles an hour.”
“Oh, thanks.”  I bring it back down.
Still, the car is having a tough time handling these speeds.  At one point, the wind peels a three-foot tentacle of rubber sealant from the windshield, sends it whipping against the passenger window and Caitlin screaming.
“OH MY GOD, WHAT IS THAT THING!”
“THE CAR’S FALLING APART, WE’RE GOING TOO FAST!
“IT’S SO ANGRY!”
“IT’S LIKE SOMETHING FROM RIDLEY SCOTT’S ALIEN!  IT’S LIKE AN OCTOPUS!”
“KILL IT!”
We pull off at an exit, which takes us to a dirt field, and examine the damage.  The wind had been whipping the thing around, lashing it dangerously against the windows of the car.  An operation is in order, and we amputate the thing and throw the appendage in the trunk, then press on.  On the onramp back to I-70, we pass a van pulled over onto the side of the road, and a woman helping her toddler son to piss in a field.  This is hilarious, and we almost pause to snap a picture, but have second thoughts about photographing an exposed five-year old.
No stopping us, though.  We’re back on the road, and pass cars maliciously anymore.
“Fuck you, truck.”
“Take that.”
“Fuck you too, car.”
“And take… That.”
Hysterics set in.
“Wait for it…  Wait for it…  AND TAKE THIS!”
We pass other cars maliciously, anymore.
And, finally, the border crossing.  Cliché, but imperative: “We’re not in Kansas anymore.”  The fields of Kansas roll into Colorado, but become more rugged, look more like someone should be herding cattle or something.  And then, suddenly, there they are.  The Rockies loom. And on either side of the road there are hundreds of those towering wind turbines, Zen-like in their perpetual motion.  Every once in a while, though, you can spy a still, dead one.  Actual tumbleweeds blow across the road.
Caitlin wants to finish off the drive, and insists on driving herself into Boulder as a sort of finality.  This is understandable, and I get it, although I am still somewhat loath to give up the wheel.
Denver turns out to be a bit uglier and more industrial a city than I’d expected, but Caitlin shrugs.  “Everyone in Boulder hates Denver.” And then, the sign for Boulder, 20 miles.
“Holy shit.  We’ve almost made it.”
“I’m feeling Walkmen.”
“Me too.  The song that started it all.”
The mountains are on top of us now, and we begin an ascent, the air becoming more rarified with every passing second and foot of elevation gained.  Caitlin starts to feel sick from the change in atmospheric pressure and, great tragedy, all my Precision V7 pens start to explode.
But the rarified air does feel good.  So good that maybe, you think, there was something to all that Kerouacian Big Sur beatnik shit.  We’re up past Boulder now, and close to home.
“Is it cold?”
I roll down a window.  “It’s rarified.  That creek is frozen.”
“Uhm… That doesn’t answer my question.”
No looking back, long road ahead.  Eh, grrl?
“Listen, I’m not going to give you an opinion, one way or another, about whether I think it’s cold or not.  I’m just saying; that creek is frozen as shit.”
And we pull into the driveway, “Four Provinces” playing, Caitlin and I singing along, even after turning off the radio.  The last thing on the tape recorder is the two of us: “The next time I see you at Sophia’s place, we’ll fall right back in line.”
Then, just Caitlin:  “We’ll tilt up your glass, somethin’ somethin’… (less musically, here) Something… something."

2000 Miles to Boulder



I’m a Virginia native, through and through.  In fact, I’ve never before been off the East Coast of the States.  How then did it come to pass that my ticket to Adelaide was booked out of DEN?  It’s a short story, really.  But, I’ll try and drag it out.
In mid-January, Nate was having a dinner at his home, the rustic little farmhouse adjacent to the Sunset Hills property that seems to perfectly fit and indeed compliment that whole poet/winemaker aesthetic he has going on.  The news had just been broken to me concerning my acceptance onto the Bird in Hand harvest team, my entry to The Crush Squad, and I was giddy to share the news and get some insight from Nate about the whole endeavor.
All the usual suspects were there, and I was a bit late, having just gotten off work in Ashburn.  I struggled for a minute with the ill-fitting door that leads to the kitchen, finally bursting through and making my entrance.  Nate was busy managing the various things cooking and stewing on the stove, and greets me with a characteristic “Hey man.”  Sarah, who Nate is completely and endearingly infatuated with, and who in turn is completely and endearingly infatuated with Nate, is of course also there, and I get one of those lovely full-body hugs she’s so good at giving.  Scott, the assistant winemaker at SSH and quite literally the most interesting man in the world, gives me a hearty handshake as his youngster, Devon, tears through the kitchen, chasing Lloyd the barn cat with a toy monster truck.
Scott kneels and intercepts the child.  “Devon, do you remember Daniel?”  Devon and I get along famously well, and I get a characteristic laugh/roar and a hug out of the kid.  Jodie is there as well, Scott’s always lovely and gracious wife, and gives me a hug before making off to go mind Devon as he continues his wild streak through the house.
A young and pretty Latina girl in a princess dress follows Devon timidly, occasionally cornering and petting Lloyd before the cat stalks off.  The girl’s presence indicates that Quinten, the savant-level vineyard manager who, as far as I can tell, is responsible for planting half the vines in Loudoun, is here, as well as his wife and second daughter.  They tend to stick to the living room, but I am waylaid from making salutations by the drink being pressed on me.
Sarah is a wine distributor working for the Country Vintner, a company that arguably has one of the best wine portfolios in the commonwealth.  Hence: lots of good wine.  But, since I’ll be driving home, I decide to opt for beer this early in the evening.
“Pumpkin beer?”
I’d seen a carboy of the beer fermenting next to the woodstove in the living room a few weeks ago, and was actually quite interested in trying it.  So, Nate pops a bottle of his homebrew and we watched as, over-heady, it settles in my glass.
“It’s been doing that, and I don’t know why.”
We discuss the beer for a moment.  We talk about the less than overt pumpkininess the beer has, which Nate is somewhat perplexed by considering the amount of pumpkin he’d used, and about the short lifespan of these homebrews, three- or four-week shelf life, max.  Nate shrugs.  “They just start to fall apart.”
There’s a rap on the glass of the kitchen door, and I once again engage it, finally springing it loose so that Lori and Jim Corcoran can enter.  Bubbly Lori and Bacchic Jim, who come bearing growlers filled with their own beer.  Lori is whisked into the party, while Jim gets a dose of the homebrew. “It’s been doing that, and I don’t know why.”
Ben Comstock, Nate’s childhood friend and my cellar rat and drinking compatriot, is the next to arrive, and as a party gift brings a 40oz. of Hurricane.  This is hilarious.  And, not far behind him is a girl, tiny and pretty, who I don’t know.  But Sarah is excited to see her, so there is some connection there.  Sarah and the girl, Caitlin, make a round of introductions, and we are briefly introduced.
Eventually, the kitchen becoming quite crowded, I make my way to the living room.  Quinten stands up to greet me, and talks to me in his quiet and conscientious way, with all his lovable inflections and speech pauses as he mentally translates from Spanish to English and back again.  Devon continues his tear, circling throughout the house with his monster truck, making periodic passes through the living room.  He stops, once, and guzzles a bottle of water so fast that he’s panting for breath when he finally comes up for air.  He continues his streak.
Sarah, the longtime girlfriend of Ben Sedlins, another vineyard guy, appears out of nowhere.  She’s halfheartedly looking for Ben, who’s around here somewhere, and simultaneously making her party rounds.  It’s been a few weeks since I’d last seen Sarah, back during harvest.  She’s been globetrotting around, working for a humanitarian organization and working in Africa and Southeast Asia.  She’s big eyed and enthused about just about everything, but especially about my Aussieland news.  Ben had done the same thing last year, and loved the experience, so Sarah is naturally a proponent of the whole harvest abroad thing.
Our conversation gets interrupted as Nate starts rounding us all up, and the whole big discombobulated family sets out distributing plates and food, which in itself is an odd but hearty ensemble, this being a potluck affair: fresh baked bread and eggplant lasagna, curry and butternut squash soup, enchiladas, salad.  Everyone is crammed into the dinning room around a few makeshift tables, and all this works very well and is conducive to the intimacy.  Free flowing wine and homebrew helps, too.  Quinten repeatedly warns us about the spiciness of the salsa his wife has made, assuming our delicate gringo palates may be distressed by the heat.
We settle in, and somehow the conversation turns immediately to our first concerts, and the storytelling revolves around the table as we each take our turn relating tales of Bon Jovi and Bruce Springsteen or whoever.  Dinner passes fast, and is only briefly interrupted when Devon makes some completely out-of-the-blue comment about his shoes, and bursts into tears.  It’s actually quite funny, but is a sign that the kid is tired and getting cranky, so Scott and Jodi prepare to leave, and Quinten and his family do likewise.
There’s the cleanup, and with so many people it gets done quick, even with a minor stumbling over each other.  We settle into post-dinner postures, with a general migration to the living room and the wood stove where it’s warm, especially if you’ve just stepped back in from your cigarette out there in the biting cold.  Quinten, Ben, Jim and I linger a while at the table, Jim and Ben talking vineyard management and Quinten and I mostly listening.  But Jim soon gets tired, still recovering from his last dose of chemo just a few weeks before, and he and Lori trigger an exodus by being the first to leave.  Those with children follow them out, and our party is effectively reduced to half.
Action now is in the living room, to which all persons and all alcohol are relocated.  There’s general chitchat, and the record player is cued.  Nate’s got a pretty eclectic vinyl collection, but The Walkmen’s exceptionally catchy “You & Me” is currently playing.  Comstock and Nate had turned me onto the album during the harvest season and even now, months later, it’s still in heavy rotation.
Here Caitlin, seemingly for the first time all night, says something.  “This is the best song on the album.”  Well, hells bells, it’s “Four Provinces,” which is indeed the best track on the album.  I decide that I like this girl.
The night progresses, and we all get drastically more drunk.  Eventually, the record player goes silent and, instead of flipping to the b side, Nate breaks out a guitar, then Ben Sedlins reaches for a mandolin and Comstock scrounges up an acoustic bass from somewhere in the attic.  These goofy songs get played, Weezer and Blink 182 and who knows what else.  Eventually, the whole thing devolves into a jam session.
Here, Caitlin again makes her presence known.  The girl has lungs.  Quickly, she steals the show as everyone does this improve thing, the Sarahs doing harmonics and occasional lines, and Ben Comstock occasionally but to great comic effect throwing in a baritone “Where do you go, when ya go?  Which doesn’t make any sense, but fits the mood pretty perfectly and sends us all into hysterics every time he drops it.  I have no musical inclinations whatsoever, and so I sit back and take it all in, nursing my booze.
At some point during the night, Comstock leans in, and says to me, “You know, that girl Caitlin, she’s leaving in a month.”  Implication here: So are you, Daniel.  There could be a connection.  I had caught snippets of conversation, concerning Caitlin leaving these general parts, but have no details.
Eventually, we’re mostly all too drunk to function, and everyone starts dispersing for home.  I am particularly drunk, and Sarah, tellingly, says, “Danzig, you should stay here tonight.”  Well, the choice between driving whilst somewhat intoxicated or crashing on a couch isn’t much of a choice at all.  Coincidence, here, Caitlin decides to stay the night as well.  We shoot the shat for a bit, long after Nate and Sarah go to bed.
Turns out Caitlin lives and works in Middleburg.  And Middleburg is almost entirely populated by middle-agers, well entrenched in the upper echelons of society, who are concerned solely with equine activities and The Hunt.  The one possible exception to this is the Middleburger’s obsession with and patronization of each other’s artwork and handcraft bits.  In order to support the infrastructure of this arts-and-crafts economy, a veritable army of nubile young women are employed to (wo)man the boutique shops and art galleries of the upper class.  Caitlin, nubile young yoga chick that she is, is one such girl.
Eventually, I can no longer stay awake, and when someone gives this candy-ass, Peter Pan-green silk blanket, I wrap myself up and put myself down on the couch, falling asleep, obnoxiously, in my contacts.  Before I do, Caitlin and I swap digits, contingent on me getting her a copy of “You & Me.”  And then, I am out.

* * *

Caitlin and I stay in touch, sporadically, and I see her once or twice in the next couple of weeks.  Our paths cross at another dinner with Nate, and one day I do deliver her a copy of The Walkmen album and we bum around Purcellville on a Monday, which is the worst day to bum around small town America; everything being closed.  And we get along well enough.
As my time in Virginia is drawing to a close, so is Caitlin’s, and across a handful of encounters I’m able to tease a few details out of the girl, concerning her own departure.  Something about a long term relationship ending, the stagnation of life in Middleburg, and an offer from her parents to come back home to Colorado, to regroup.  So, at the end of February, her dad is to fly out to Virginia, and the two of them would drive her car and belongings across the country back home, in Boulder.
Sad story, here: we get along decently and we’re both at divergent points in our lives.  But, so it goes.  Then, early Feb., I get a text:
“So, my dad can’t make it out to drive back to Colorado with me.  My parents offered to pay for gas, food, and hotels if a friend came with me, and to fly them back to the east coast.  Wanna go on a roadtrip? Lol jk.”
Well, I sit on this for a minute, and tactfully compose a response.
“I feel like you’re being half-serious, so I’m just going to put it out there: plane tickets to Adelaide are a lot cheaper from the West Coast.”
Reply:
“I was being completely serious, but put in the “jk” just in case I got rejected.”
And so, coincidentally, it does work out.  And we begin preparing for D-Day.

Communiqués: Aldwin

"Hi everbody ! I'm Aldwin and like you, i'll work im Bird in Hand as cellar hand (or Lab staff for other people). I think that it would be very nice if we meet us.
I arrived in Adelaide the 25th January. And i have a big difficulty to rent a room just for three months. I hope that you have found your place.
But i'm interesting if anybody has an idea, maybe to have a houseshare or other. I'm french, friendly and I come from Nantes in the Valley of Loire, the land of the Chenin variety.

Cheers,

Aldwin"

"Hello Aldwin!  My name's Daniel.  Thank you for introducing yourself, and I look forward to meeting you in person soon!  I'm from Virginia, on the East coast of the United States.

I'm also worried about housing.  But, I believe Peter has located a place for me not far from the winery, in Charleston.  I don't know the details, only that I'll be paying rent.  It may be that the place is big enough for a couple of interns, you should ask him if he can locate housing for you.

What have you been doing in Adelaide for the past month?  I hear it's an awesome city.  I'll be arriving on the 22nd.  Have you been working at Bird in Hand all this time?  Or maybe just seeing the city?

Well, Aldwin, I look forward to meeting you.  Take care of yourself, and I'll see you soon!
Best,
Daniel"

"Hi Daniel !
Thank you for the response. Nice to meet u ! I'm already in Adelaide City. It's just amazing ! Kangooro Island, Glenelg beach, the coast, pubs... there are many things to do in Adelaide.
I'm going send mail to Peter right now.

Cheers"

"Great!  Sounds like you're having an amazing time, and I can't wait to join you.  Definitely get in touch with Peter, and let me know what he says.  Also, do you have any transportation?  It might be a good idea for us interns to pitch in and get a car together, to make getting around a bit easier.

Best,
Daniel"

"Hey Aldwin, just got into Adelaide last night, was wondering how
you're doing, if you'd scrounged up housing. And how did induction go?
Talk to you soon.

Best
DC"

"Hi daniel !
What's going on ?
The first day was very soft, a bit of bottling and tank washing with a visit of cellar and at the end a tasting.
Just you must to meet fiona, the personnal manager or something like this.
I found a bedroom yesterday afternoo. Call Peter ! He's the key man. Trust me !
So where are u ? What's your plans today ?
Cheers
Aldwin"

"Hey Aldwin! Thanks for getting back to me. Haven't been able to get ahold of Peter or Mitchell yet, or the lady I thought might have a room for me. Staying with some friends in the city, maybe for a few days till this all gets sorted out. Might try and open
 a bank account, other than that not much going on today. Might try to get out to the winery, too. Scope it out.

Where are you staying? Close to the winery or in the city? Glad you were able to work something out! Any update on the transport situation?

Anyway, hope you're well, and see you soon!
Daniel"

The Outward Journey, At Any Rate. (Days Two & Three)





We’d planned on leaving at 8:30am, but there is of course some delay.  Probably this is my fault, since I’m rarely on time for anything, and never early.  The alarm had gone off at 8ish, and I’d heard Caitlin moving around to take a shower, but as always I milked it for all it was worth and snoozed until the last minute.  But, being a guy, I’m ready for the day in about ten minutes flat whereas Caitlin, lady that she is, takes a bit of time.  All said and done, we about even out, and are ready to hit the road at about the same time.
There’s the logistical nightmare of getting the car composed again, after trashing it trying to get to all the personal effects and necessities we’d buried in the packing.  Also, Lilly must be extracted from the hotel, and already I know that this will become a running theme of the trip.
Mad cat.
Out in the parking lot, it is gross.  It’s cold and wet with the leftovers of some passing shower, and the wind howls.  But, for now the rain seems to be holding off.  Still, it’s a far cry from the idyllic weather of the day before.  And this part of Kentucky is, in general, uglier than the parts of Virginia and West Virginia we’d just passed through.  We’d come into the state in the night but, now exposed under the less than flattering light of inclement weather, Kentucky seems a bit lackluster.
We get the cat and our overnight gear into the car, and decide to scope the continental breakfast.  Somewhat comically, Caitlin is wildly impressed, and sets about concocting some sort of hyper-sugared, fruit-infused oatmeal.  I prep coffee, which she takes “platinum bimbo” - that is, heavy cream and heavy sugar.  I’ve gotten so that I can no longer stomach breakfast anymore, but a glass of apple juice settles me pretty well.
When we reemerge from the hotel, that ominous cloud cover has manifested itself in the form of a light snowfall.  We both throw minor fits, and seriously consider checking back into the hotel.  The last thing I want to do is push the Toyota’s limits with black ice, snow, slush, and whatever other forms of precipitation Mother Nature can throw at us.
“But, it’s not really sticking,” Caitlin concedes.  “The ground is too warm.  Maybe we can get a little bit of driving in, and if it’s too bad we can pull over.”
“If we got as far a Louisville and the weather is still bad, we could just shack up at one of the places Michael suggested, do dinner like we wanted to, and then get back on track tomorrow…”
This seems agreeable and so, suicidally, we hit the road.  Less breakneck today, and I try and keep it around 50.  Last thing we need is this already-jumpy car deciding to catch a gust of wind and hit an ice patch simultaneously.
“Ehrm… Daniel?”
“I know.”
The flurries of earlier have gotten a little bigger and badder, and we’re now driving through a veritable blizzard.  I’d been nervous on I-81, but this is really stressing me out.  I get behind a jeep, keeping a respectful distance.  Theory here being: If the road gets too gnarly for the jeep, then it is most certainly too gnarly for us.  Canary in a coal mine mentality, that sorta thing.
But, just when the snowfall is at it’s worst and we’re about to call it quits on the day, the weather clears.  So our travel day is saved, and we keep on keeping on.  And, as the road becomes less hazardous, I slip back into the rhythm of the day before: hours at a time at a steady 80mph.  Uninterrupted momentum.  Sustained speed.  Westward movement.
Well, maybe not completely uninterrupted.  Roundabouts noon, I spy a sign:  Equus Run Winery.  Yeah, that’s right.  Kentucky wine.
And Caitlin knows my curiosity is piqued, and consents to the detour.  So, we take an off ramp and a dirt road, against the obnoxious and monotoned protestations of the gps.  “Recalculating… Turn left, NOW!”
If I had a nickel.
It’s a cute little place, though are reception is somewhat cold.  A frumpy, middle-aged-plus housewife type, who Caitlin immediately pegs as a lesbian.  Yeah well, maybe she’d know, Caitlin’s having slight tendencies herself, I gather.  Anyhow, the woman does warm up, although perhaps more towards my traveling companion than to me personally.
It’s kind of a cool set up, the deal being five bucks for your choice of six wines, from a lineup of maybe fifteen or so.  We try and steer Caitlin towards the sweeter stuff, a Riesling and a summer white and a dessert wine.  Some cool stuff I’m interested in trying, as well: a vio, tempranillo, grenache.  They aren’t bad but, much to my disappointment, the barkeep discloses that at least half of the juice is coming from Lodi, and I suspect the percentage might be higher than she’s letting on.  The last wine Caitlin absolutely adores, one of those chocolate-infused monstrosities.
The barkeep suggests, for lunch, a little sandwich shop just beyond the historic district of whatever Kentucky town it is we’re near.  We listen politely enough, and she is kind enough to write out step-by-step directions for us.  But, on our way through the parking lot back to the car, we both decide that we’re not quite hungry enough to eat just yet.
Pulling out back onto the road, I glance at the rearview mirror, and am startled to see Lilly’s feline face taking up my entire field of vision.  Somehow, the cat had sprung herself free.  Jailbreak, as it were.  Neither Caitlin or I have the energy to get her back in the crate while the car is moving, and anyway we figure it’d be good for her to stretch her limbs.  Lilly stalks about the car, and this gets comical and then dangerous when she decides to crawl into my lap, up the steering wheel and across the dashboard.
After another hour or so of driving, having toasted another tank of gasoline, we pull off at one of those combination fast food/gas station affairs.  The latter is a Shell, and the former is a White Castle, which Caitlin is extremely excited about.
“Isn’t that a, like, stoner thing?”
White Castle is, indeed, a stoner thing.  At least for our generation.  We get out of the car, thwarting an escape attempt from Lilly, and quickly realize that this place is not as lovable as Hollywood has made it out to be.  It’s populated by the most miserable of people:  A pink and bearded, real pederast looking type, wearing just coveralls.  A pair of seedy Latinos.  A miserable looking elderly couple, who I suspect may only keep breathing out of spite for each other.
We order food, but Caitlin insists on going back to the car to eat.  “Too many hairy eyeballs,” she sez.  Dumb me, I hadn’t noticed.  Probably should have, and fought someone.  But, anyhow, this gets us on the subject of the Cold War Kids, and I try to recall a pertinent line.
“Ehrm…  Every man I fall for, something something something…  When other men pass by blinkin’ their eyes at me, he always picks a fight.”
We blow that particular popsicle stand, keel perpetually pointed westward and into the setting sun.  We’ve burnt through much of the CD collection, and are at this point digesting the Last of the Mohicans OST pretty thoroughly.  I can’t help but narrate to “Promontory.”  The chase, the death of Uncas, Cora’s suicide.
“Dude, we have to watch this movie tonight.”
“Affirm, little lady.”
Caught nappin'.  Sleeping like a dead man.
At some point we decide to switch off driving duties.  I milk it for what it’s worth, whittling the gas tank down to damn near empty before pulling over at what is probably the last gas station for 60 miles on this particularly desolate stretch of Kentucky.  I step into the station to relieve myself and, on my way back out, notice Jack Daniels and Coca-Cola in a bottle.  Immediately, I want it.
“Caitlin, they have whiskey-coke in a bottle here.”
“You want it?”
“Aw, I dunno…  With us driving and all?”
“I’ll drive, and I don’t mind.  Get it!”
She doesn’t have to tell me twice, but she does yell “Chapstick!” at me, because she’s lost several on this trip already.  As I pick out my poison, I take stock of the rest of the store: POW and “Don’t Tread On Me” flags, Confederate memorabilia, knives and Zippos for sale at the counter…  No chapstick though.  Until the clerk, who does not check my ID, points them out, next to the knives.
Thus, with me warmed body and soul by my whiskey, and Caitlin appropriately lubricated from the biting Midwest elements, we get back on the road.  Caitlin drives for a bit, taking us through St. Louis and over the Mississippi, which is worthwhile just for the novelty of the experience, although we both fall in love with the bridges, these huge iron structures channeling us across the water.  And we both have a good laugh at the KFC “YUM!” convention center because, well, this is Kentucky and while that seems fitting it’s also completely ridiculous. Caitlin catches me napping as we cross the state line into Kansas, and I miss much after this.
We’d been hoping to make Kansas City, and do the downtown hotel bit as well as visit a speakeasy later in the evening.  Alas, after maybe twelve hours of driving, we call quits, and fall short of the goal.  Lilly hasn’t eaten or gone piddle all day, and it is another 90 miles to the city.  And, after this long haul, Last of the Mohicans is sounding pretty inviting.  We decide to shack up for the night, and start scouring the area for a hotel.
“We must find a place with an indoor pool.”
I nod, in emphatic agreement.  I like the idea, but I know Caitlin is downright stuck on it.  The Hampton from last night had had a pool but, alas, it was out of commission.  So, as we circle a Holiday Inn and some other, seedier hotel chain, Caitlin decides to call the front desk.
Perhaps she should have utilized a little more tact, but that is neither here nor there.  First words out of the girl’s mouth are: “Hi, do you have an indoor pool?”
Affirm, but only for registered guests.
“Oh, okay.  Do you have any vacancies?”
Negative.  All booked up.
Wellllll shit…  We’re somewhat deflated here, now, and take a moment to contemplate out next move, car still running and stopped in the middle of this access road.
I do one of my sharp inhales, or guttural clicks or whatever mannerism it is that signifies that I’m about to speak, and that Caitlin has picked up on of late, making me hyper self-conscious about it.  She gives me a moment.  Then, laughs, and: “Spit it out, Daniel!”
“I feel like they do still have rooms available, they just didn’t want some punk kids pool hopping on them.”
Caitlin ponders this, is slightly miffed and becomes slightly indignant over the implications, but we pull into a parking spot, and it is decided that I will go parley with the concierge.
Minutes later, I return to the car and get back in the driver’s seat, shit-eating grin on my face.
“Well?”
“Two rooms available.  Queen’s suite, smoking…”
“And…”
“And king suite.  Non-smoking.”
“King’s suite, of course!”
We grab our night gear, and walk in like we own the place.  Caitlin makes arrangements, giving the desk clerk the evil eye the whole time, this despite me telling her not to blow cover.
“Here are your cardkeys and your internet password.  And the pool and hot tub are open to guests until eleven.”
“Oh, they are?”  Scathing sarcasm, feigned surprise.
Again, there’s the smuggling operation with the cat.  Wine is brought in, too, and we set about drinking, trying to kill a few of the opens we have lingering about.  I get sent down to procure takeout menus.  Turns out we’re in a pretty dry stretch of Missouri, and the only places delivering are Pizza Hut and another Chinese restaurant.
And so, pineapple pizza and wings it is.
She whispers at me, who’s on the phone: “Get the wings extra mild!”
Well, this feels silly, but:  “Uh, can we get the wings, uh… Extra mild?”
Caitlin’s been casing the joint, and reports in, irritated, that the pool is occupied.  We decide to sit down and watch a few episodes of It’s Always Sunny.  This is good television to drink to, and a good way to kill time, both until pizza arrives and until the pool empties out.
Also, I suddenly learn why Caitlin was slightly offended by the time I described her as being “birdy”:  “Shut up, Dee.  You look like a bird.”
Pizza comes, and Caitlin develops an immediate and lingering crush on the delivery boy, aged maybe nineteen.  Such a cradle robber.
We lay out the spread, and it’s actually exactly what we needed.  Or what I needed, at any rate.  We cue up Last of the Mohicans, and tuck in.  But, the AC unit is too loud for the tiny Macbook speakers, and we’re getting drunk and restless, anyway.  It’s close to closing time, too, and so we decide to get in the pool while the getting’s good.
All I have are running shorts, although Caitlin is well prepared with a bikini.  Down at the pool, a group of four, two real meathead-types and their nearly retarded girlfriends, have staked out the hot tub.  A line is drawn in the sand, and Caitlin and I take over the pool.
I’m a very weak swimmer, having never developed the necessary breathing technique and being unable to stand having my eyes open underwater.  I propel myself, blindly and in a single direction, blowing air until I’m no longer buoyant enough to float and sink to the bottom, to come bursting up for air at the last moment.
Caitlin is my foil.  She is graceful in the water, can turn herself on a dime and effectively evade me in any of those aquatic games that a boy and a girl will play when alone together in water.
“I’m a water baby,” she sez.
Mohawk: a generous scalping patch.
At first, I assume this means that her mother, who I know to be a holistic practitioner, had given a natural birth to Caitlin, one of those rituals where the baby is born into the water.  It would make sense, then, that children born in such ways would have an attraction, and easiness and a comfort in the water.
Caitlin laughs.  No, she only loves the water, and her connection to it was not instilled at birth, but in some other way.
The gorillas abandon the hot tub, and Caitlin and I move in for the requisition.  Perfect timing, as the chill was starting to set in.
I love hot tubs.  Love sinking in up to my neck and letting all of those back muscles loose themselves.  Love the nostalgia of my collegiate, athletic days that hot water harkens back.
We stay in the hot tub, which Caitlin, weirdly, keeps pronouncing “tot hub,” until I’m sweating like I just woke up from a night terror.  Then, as we’re about to leave, someone turns out the lights on us.  Naturally, we have to linger, for the sake of breaking rules if nothing else.  Sneaking around with the lights out and up to our neck in hot water, it feels like Nam.
Finally, we have to go.  Due to the massive dehydration effect of the hot tub, combined with my generally high intake of diuretics like alcohol and caffeine, I develop a splitting headache. We slide into the pool real quick to cool off, and this is actually not as bracing as I would have thought.  We dry off, and make our way back to the room.  We guzzle water and Caitlin, holistic and caregiver that she is, is nice enough to give me a temple massage, which massively alleviates my pounding head.
We put ourselves down for the night.

*  *  *

We’d decided to take an easy day from travel, after such a marathon drive the day before, and so sleep in on Saturday.  We plan on going into the city, hitting up a few museums and that speakeasy we so wanted to visit, and then head west to visit my Uncle Dan and Aunt Ann in Kansas, who I hadn’t seen in some time.  I’d mentioned that part of the Callan clan lived in Lawrence, just west of Kansas City, and both Caitlin and her mother had insisted we detour to see them, much to my relief.  So, at eleven or so, after having dragged ass all morning and eaten leftover pizza for breakfast since we’d missed the continental, I put in a call to my Uncle Dan.  He gave us some ideas for places to go, and we tried to coordinate a rendezvous for later in the evening.
Caitlin is on a CD burning tear, which is infectious.  We’ve been relying solely on her CD player; she doesn’t have an MP3 hookup.  And, after two days on the road, most all the discs we’d brought with us from VA have been massively overplayed.  So, we burn more.  Lots more.  In fact, on this trip music is imperative for survival, and we’re burning as many CDs as we are burning bridges to our enemies, which is saying something.  Especially for Caitlin, who’s picked up and moved on and left every last one of them behind.  Well, excepting me, who she’s inexplicably picked up, too.
We’d meant to do it the night before, but had been too tired to get around to cutting my hair.  So, we take up scissors, and set about giving me a mohawk.  This was partly inspired by Last of the Mohicans; something about Mohawk Indians leaving a “generous scalping patch” for their enemies.  Hence, the “mohawk” hairdo.  Only Caitlin doesn’t quite grasp the concept, and cuts off the back of it.  So, basically I just end up with a bad haircut.  We make a mess, and I suspect I’ll be itchy all day
Eventually we get the hint; the maids keep knocking on the door and asking us when we’re leaving.  And so we make our escape.
Caitlin thinks she will literally die if we don’t eat before we get to Kansas City, ETA 2:30pm.  So, we pull into a Wendy’s drive through, and deliberate for a moment until Caitlin becomes ecstatic upon realizing that oatmeal is on the breakfast menu, and she continues her cereal kick.  I order up a lemonade, but am disappointed when it tastes overwhelmingly of aspartame.
Back on the road, this part of Kansas is as gray as Missouri, although not the endless expanse of “nothing” people so often warn against to those of us driving across the country.  Again, this is a stretch that we can haul ass through, and I’ve become not just used to but indeed fond of state sponsored speeds of 85mph.
Uncle Dan had said that Kansas City barbecue was a must while in the city, and that Arthur Bryant’s was the cream of the crop.  Blindly, we let the gps lead us into Kansas City, into a part of the metropolis that seems more like Detroit or Baltimore than it does an urban center of Kansas.  It’s urban decay all around, and very close to ghetto status.  I am somewhat sketched out, and Caitlin is quite seriously sketched out, but we find the barbecue pit, and there’s no turning back now.
“You should take off your bandana.”
“What?”
“It’s red.  Someone might think they’re gang colors.”
“Oh… Should I bring my knife?”
“I think you should bring your knife.”
Almost made it.
We lock our doors, and double check to make sure they are locked, then head in, not knowing what to expect.  Actually though, the place is fairly crowded, and has a pretty congenial vibe to it.  The ordering system is a little confusing, subsisting mostly of a line up to a set of windows, behind which a bunch of kids are haphazardly cutting meat and making sandwiches.  I get pretty excited though when I see the British chip system put into play: to-go orders are rolled up in simple brown paper, greasy as all hell.  After standing around for a minute, Caitlin somehow attracts enough attention to place an order for some ribs in.  I place an order for a pulled port sandwich, but the guy I’d ostensibly ordered from promptly disappears for ten minutes.  Just when I’d about given up on ever seeing my food, a plate full of fries and the sloppiest pulled pork sandwich I’d ever seen appears.
We grab some seats, sauce up, and tuck in.  Uncle Dan had been right, it was damn good grub.
“You’re not allowed to look at me.”
“What?  Why?”
“Because.  It’s messy.”
And she is.  I try to avert my eyes out of deference to the young lady’s modesty but, even so, I can tell.  Those ribs are messy.
After eating until bloated, and with meat still stuck between our teeth, we drive a few blocks, to where gps sez the Boulevard Brewing Co. should have their facilities, and a free tour.  After some difficulty we realize, duh, that a giant obelisk or smoke stack or something, emblazoned “Boulevard” on the side, marks the location.  However, we are thwarted, and the tour is overbooked.  We decide to try for a backup plan: aquarium.
"Trust the tube."
Well, again, thwarted.  The line to get into the aquarium is stupidly long, and it is bitingly cold out here.  Final straw comes when a man drags his kid out of the line to go find someplace for the boy to take a piss.  In passing, he tells us they’ve been there for an over an hour.
We’ve not got time for such nonsense.  Instead, we decide to take a stroll around the block, to find some sort of modern art display we’d passed by earlier, which we assume must mean there’s an art museum nearby.  After a few minutes, we find the sculpture, and Caitlin snorts dismissively at the plaque explaining that this thing was a representation of Shiva.  Somewhat disappointed by the losing streak we’re on, we try to make our way back to the parking deck where we’d left the car.  Instead, we end up in some sort of strange blue tube thing, which somehow connects several of the buildings in the vicinity via these over-street walkways.  It is confusing, and we are seemingly surrounded by wheelchair-bound persons.  It is at this point that we develop hysterics and start cracking up at nothing and everything in particular, probably some combination of travel fatigue and the fact that we get along so well.
Anyway, after a bit of silliness the tube finally dumps us in the parking garage, or near enough to it.  Then there is, of course, the limbo-esque experience of trying to locate the car, and after that the navigation of the subterranean prison that is any parking deck.  Really, the whole thing plays out kinda like that Seinfeld episode.
The day is salvaged, however, by the Kemper Contemporary Art Museum.  We knew we were on the right track when, just outside the museum, we came across a row of grotesque sculptured heads and then, even more exciting, one of Louise Bourgeois’s giant spider sculptures, which guarded the entrance. We kicked around Kemper for an hour or so, impressed by some of the exhibits and underwhelmed by others.  On a whole though, it was quite good, and we left Kansas City on a high note.
We’d arranged to meet the Kansas Callan’s at a sports bar in Lawrence at around 7pm, and made all haste to get there.  Kansas University was playing that night and, Lawrence being a rabid college town, the populace had turned out en masse to support the hometown heroes.  I spiy Uncle Dan through the crowded bar, although it takes him a second to recognize me.  Which is fair, since it had been years since I’d seen him and I’m sure I’ve grown up quite a bit since then.  And, similarly, I barely recognize Samuel, who’s built like a bull anymore, a far cry from the scrawny kid I’d probably last seen when we were both still children.  I find Aunt Ann tucked away on a bench, waiting for our hostess to seat us, and Sadie is there with her baby boy, Pearson, who I’m just seeing for the first time Also here is Sadie’s husband Michael, who I’ve not yet met.
We finally do get seated, and it’s a good time, catching up with everyone, and I even get a bit caught up in the KU game, what with the infectiousness of the crowd’s enthusiasm and Kansas stomping Texas and all.  Sam’s older brother Matt even joins us for a beer, partway through the evening, and it’s a full on family reunion.  We shoot the shat, swapping family gossip and relating the recent happenings of the clan members.  But it’s growing late and we have road in front of us so, all to soon, it is time for Caitlin and I to move on.
We put rubber to pavement again, and I find I can’t drive any slower than 70mph anymore.  My foot just takes over.  I even freak myself out a bit, when I come out of my little road hypnosis spells and realize that I’m doing 90 in the pitch black dark.
After maybe two hours of driving, we hit Junction City, and scour for another Holiday Inn, having had such a good experience at the last one.  We do find one and, though it isn’t as nice as the one we’d stayed at in Missouri, it fits the bill.  After going through the chore of fishing out our nighttime necessities from the car, along with the cat, we turn in.  I’m too tired to even get drunk, and we just hit hay.